Caviar introduces a luxury brunch affair


A trio of beautifully plated snacks greet us as we sit in the lovely wooded confines of the Caviar restaurant – grilled salsify sticks crusted with chorizo ​​breadcrumbs, croquettes stuffed with corn and manchego and puffs of stuffed smoked oysters of cream cheese.

The latter two are crowned with delicate orbs of caviar: Eight Gems No. 2 Superior Oscietra and Giaveri White Sturgeon respectively. Both bites are deliciously warm and indulgent, the buttery egg pearls injecting little hints of salt. The crunchy salsify stalks, smoked from the binchotan coals, aren’t bad either, besides coming off a little heavy as the chorizo ​​chunks tend to fall off as you nibble on them.

(Clockwise from top) Manchego croquettes with corn, salsify chorizo ​​with bergamot, smoked oysters with cream cheese. (Image: Sara Yap for Prestige Online)

It’s a promising start for Caviar’s new seven-course Sunday brunch menu, which features jazzed-up takes on staples like roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and eggs Benedict, paired with drinks such as Dom Perignon 2010 or Legras & Haas Intuition.

Based on the name of the restaurant, you’d expect to inhale sturgeon roe throughout every course, but that’s not the case. Eggs Benedict, for example, are topped with shavings of foie gras instead of strips of caviar. We’re not disappointed: the strips of foie gras lend a dash of umami flavor to the Wobbly Egg, which sits atop Pan-Seared Ham and baked Portobello mushrooms drenched in a tart Chardonnay sabayon. Also memorable is the roast beef, slices of Westholme Australan wagyu that melt in your mouth with all the toppings of smoked mashed potatoes and fluffy Yorkshire pudding.

Spotlight on Sturgeon Roe at Caviar Restaurant

Opened last December at the Renaissance Palace, Caviar offers eight types of oscietra, beluga, sevruga and kaluga, which come from Italy, Russia, China, France, Uruguay, Japan and the sea Iranian Caspian. These are presented at brunch, in tasting menus and, if desired, in a caviar tasting platter made up of four different varieties, including De Neuric Baeri caviar and Magnum Opus Kaluga.

In keeping with the theme of the restaurant, the counter seats and open kitchen are separated by a row of caviar on ice boxes. The fine-dining restaurant is owned by restaurateur Jason Ong, who runs casual restaurant Uni Gallery and seafood purveyor OosterBay.

The prized fish eggs eventually reappear later in the meal. Slurp-worthy pasta wrapped in uni sauce is beautifully al dente and scalloped with a dollop of Kaluga Queen Crossbreed from China, which provides a third of the world’s caviar. Velvety Eggs have larger pearls than other varieties and have a mild, nutty flavor that isn’t too salty.

The caviar – Eight Gems No. 2 Superior Oscietra again – also makes its way over the butter accompanied by a rye roll and a lovely petit four yuzu pie for a contrast of sweet, sour and brackish flavors.

caviar restaurant reviews
Plain pasta topped with Kaluga Queen Crossbreed caviar. (Image: Sara Yap for Prestige Online)

It’s a splendid brunch, but given the establishment’s wide range of caviar, we would have liked to sample more of it with each dish. For example, there’s a missed opportunity in our second course of mussels, a refreshing concoction in which shellfish are served in a clear tomato broth and topped with ikura – which can easily be replaced with real caviar as they share similar taste profiles.

Mussels in tomato water filled with ikura. (Image: Sara Yap for Prestige Online)

That said, the food here shows potential, with each dish masterfully executed and beautifully presented – a dessert of olive oil ice cream with white chocolate and prosecco-soaked strawberries, for example, is the perfect ending to an otherwise heavy meal. All the restaurant needs right now is more of its namesake raison d’être to take it from good to great, so customers walk away feeling pampered at every turn.

Caviar brunch is available on Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 4:15 p.m.

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