Miami has responded so well to a restaurant specializing in empanadas from all over Latin America that owner Harry Coleman thought he could do the same with barbecue.
So the co-founder of the hit Empanada Harry’s in West Kendall, a restaurant he owns with his wife, Michelle, opened Smoke & Dough next door. There, he applies Latin American and Caribbean barbecue, grilling and smoking styles, as well as Latin American flavors, to create a barbecue menu unique to Miami.
Imagine a Texan-style brisket with a blend of Cuban espresso coffee. Mexican barbacoa style beef cheek empanadas. A “timba” sausage (named after the two-bite snack with cheese and guava paste) made with savory guava. A pan con tomate with Catalan salbitxada sauce. And even a spicy smoked fish dip with Peruvian aji amarillo peppers.
“We’re trying to take the flavors of Miami and put it on the barbecue,” Coleman said.
Coleman, who learned the art of empanadas from his father, Philip, owner of Moises Bakery in Miami Beach, had been studying barbecue as a hobby for five years. It took a more serious turn, he said, when he and his wife took crash courses with pitmasters in Kansas City and Texas before the pandemic hit.
That led to weekly barbecue pop-ups on Sundays at Empanada Harry’s, where he experimented with everything from smoked flan to pastrami – which he’ll stuff into Venezuelan tequeños and white corn arepa sandwiches.
Smoke & Dough is a full menu of these experiences.
A tapas section ranges from smoked ham and gouda croquetas and lechon arepitas to more elegant Chilean smoked salmon toast, duck charcuterie and Bell & Evans smoked chicken liver pate with toast.
“That’s how my wife and I like to eat. We like to taste a lot of things with a glass of wine,” said Coleman, 37, born in Venezuela.
The meat section of the BBQ includes 15 O’Clock Smoked Beef Brisket, 12 O’Clock Smoked Pork Butt, Domino Salt and Pepper Smoked Baby Back Ribs, and Smoked Chicken drizzled with that Catalan salbitxada sauce. Sides include baked beans with peaches and onions, wild honey cornbread, and the truffle macaroni and cheese that has made an appearance in his beloved empanadas.
And sandwiches include the reina pepiada arepa made with smoked chicken, pulled pork, and even a Ruben with pastrami, Swiss cheese, and homemade sauerkraut and pickled mustard seeds.
The highlight of Smoke & Dough’s wine list includes a very Miami tip: retired Heat guard Dwyane Wade’s wine label.
“What’s more in Miami than our own barbecue with D-Wade wine?” said Coleman.
Smoke and paste
Address: 4013 SW 152nd Ave, West Kendall
Hours: 11.30am-9pm, Wednesday and Thursday. 11.30am-10pm, Friday and Saturday. 10am-4pm, Sunday
More information: Instagram.com/harryssmokeanddough